What The Heck Am I Doing
Just got home from The Drifter premiere at the Blockade Runner. Awesome. It made me remember why life is so good and all of the things we take for granted everyday. It's nice to get a reality check every once in awhile to put you back in your place. It also made me feel like I just need to do more, get out and experience life. I don't want to be just waiting to die. Rob Machado has always been one of my favorite surfers and this movie just made me like him even more. I realize, for those of you who know me, I grew up in Kansas, so how could I really know very much about surfing and Rob Machado, but really I have been paying attention to surfing for some time, dreaming of living next to the ocean and learning to surf. It always seemed like everyone surfing was at peace with themselves and the things around them. I am still learning to surf now that I actually live near the ocean, using my husbands board when I get the chance to paddle out, and you can lose touch at first with surfing and being able to stand up and catch a wave, but again I have been reminded of what is so great about the ocean and being out there on your board. Its truly an amazing feeling. So go see the Drifter, even if you live in Kansas. Find what puts you at peace and make it happen.